How to Fix Bare and Patchy Spots in Your Lawn

Even the best lawns develop bare or thin areas over time. Maybe your dog has a favorite spot, or your kids set up the Slip ’N Slide every summer. Maybe drought or disease took a toll, or grubs chewed away roots underground.

Whatever the cause, patchy grass doesn’t mean you have to start from scratch. With the right seasonal approach—and the right products—you can bring your lawn back to full, lush health.

Why Lawns Develop Bare Spots

Understanding the cause helps you fix the issue for good:

• Heavy Traffic: Foot traffic or pets compact the soil, making it hard for roots to breathe.

• Pet Urine: Concentrated nitrogen burns grass, leaving brown patches.

• Drought Stress: Shallow roots and dry soil lead to thin, sparse turf.

• Grubs & Insects: White grubs eat roots, leaving sod that peels up like carpet.

• Fungal Disease: Brown patch, dollar spot, or snow mold can create dead areas.

• Poor Soil or Seed: Low fertility, imbalanced pH, or low-quality seed mixes with fillers and weed seeds don’t establish well.
  
  

Step one: figure out why the spot is bare so you don’t just cover up the problem and repeat it.

Fall: The Gold Standard for Lawn Repair

For cool-season grasses (Kentucky bluegrass, fescues, rye), fall is the single best time to fix bare spots:

• Warm soil speeds up germination.

• Cool air supports steady growth.

• Fewer weeds compete for space.
  

Steps for Fall Repair:

1. Prep the Soil: Rake away dead grass. Use a garden rake to remove debris, and then apply Lawnbright’s Aeroflow Liquid Aerator to relieve compaction.
   

2. Choose High-Quality Seed: Skip bargain bags (many contain up to 40% filler or weeds). Lawnbright’s North Star Grass Seed is certified, premium seed with varieties chosen for durability and appearance.
   

3. Spread the Seed: Aim for between 3-8lbs per thousand square feet of lawn space, depending on the type of seed.
   

4. Water Wisely: Keep soil moist—light watering 2-4x daily until germination. Then shift to deeper, less frequent watering.
   

For Warm-Season Grasses: fall isn’t ideal for seeding. Instead, patch with sod or plugs in late spring.

Spring: Second Best Time to Overseed

Spring is a good opportunity to refresh lawns after winter damage—but competition from weeds is higher.

Cool-Season Grasses: Overseed bare areas as soon as soil is workable. Use a starter fertilizer like Lawnbright’s Total Lawn to boost early growth.

Warm-Season Grasses: This is prime time to patch with seed (where possible) or lay sod/plugs as temps rise. Bermuda, Zoysia, and Centipede respond well to seeding in late spring. St. Augustine should be repaired with sod or plugs only.

Pro Tip: If you plan to apply pre-emergent herbicides, do it after new grass has grown for at least 6–8 weeks. Pre-emergents stop weeds—but also stop new grass seed from sprouting.

Summer: Spot Fixes & Stress Management

Summer is tough for cool-season lawns, but it’s high season for warm-season grasses.

Cool-Season Lawns:

• Skip major overseeding—it’s too hot. 

• Focus on consistent watering (deep, 2x per week).

• Check for pests—if grass lifts up easily like a rug, it may be grubs. Lawnbright’s Yard Patrol can stop them in their tracks.
  

Warm-Season Lawns:

• Summer is peak growth, making it the perfect time to repair bare areas with sod, plugs, or sprigs.

• Keep new sod or plugs watered daily until roots take hold.
  

Long-Term Prevention

Fixing bare spots is half the battle—keeping them from returning is the real win.

• Aerate annually: Relieves compaction and encourages deeper roots.

• Mow correctly: Keep blades sharp and mow no shorter than 3". Cutting too low stresses grass.

• Water deeply: Aim for 1–1.5 inches per week. Shallow, frequent watering weakens roots.

• Fertilize with balance: Over-fertilizing, especially with phosphorus, can cause long-term problems and runoff. Lawnbright’s low-phosphorus, natural plans are safe for waterways (EPA nutrient guidance).

• Soil testing: Lawnbright’s subscription plans include soil tests so your lawn gets what it needs—no more, no less. Keeping your overall turf healthy is key to your new grass.

FAQ on Fixing Bare Spots in Your Lawn

Q: How do I know if grubs are causing bare spots?
A: Tug gently on the grass. If it lifts up like carpet and you see white C-shaped larvae underneath, grubs are the culprit.

Q: Can I just throw seed on top of bare spots?
A: Without loosening soil, most seed won’t take root. Always prep by raking or aerating.

Q: How long until spots fill in?
A: Cool-season grasses germinate in 7–21 days. Warm-season sod or plugs can take 6–8 weeks to spread.

Q: Should I cover the seed with straw or mulch?
A: A thin layer of compost helps keep seed moist and protected from birds—but don’t bury it too deep, and don’t use straw since it can contain weed seeds.

Q: What’s the best fix for pet urine spots?
A: Lawnbright’s Pet Spot Repair neutralizes damage and reseeds the area at the same time.